The future of fillers was questionable at the beginning of 2023, as more of us than ever were dissolving our toddler-plump cheeks. Yet lip filler has clung to its popularity and remains one of the most requested cosmetic treatments in the UK, with Google search for natural-looking lip fillers up by 250%.
There is also more availability than ever before. Patients can even opt to visit the dentist for a filling – both of the tooth and lip variety – as some of the UK's biggest dental chains, including Bupa Dental and My Dentist, are now offering cosmetic treatments at some of their branches.
While we always stress the importance of safety should you choose to have the procedure (you should never feel pressured into any cosmetic treatment), considering the shape of your lips post filler is also paramount.
A good practitioner will avoid a cookie-cutter approach and look at how filler will balance your face and work with the natural contours of your individual lip. It's also important to note, says cosmetic doctor Dr Tijion Esho, that "the techniques, styles and products we now use have vastly evolved since I started in aesthetics over 10 years ago, especially when it comes to lips.”
Ahead are some of the most common lip filler styles, which the best practitioners will reimagine for each client to create a bespoke look.
The three-point lip
Created using Dr Esho's signature nano droplet technique, the ‘three-point lip’ involves using “small amounts of filler” at varying depths for an undetectable, yet fuller pout. It is based upon ‘The Esho Ratio’: an accentuated Cupid's Bow and a thicker bottom lip that is plumper in the middle, with the top lip 'dipped low' in the middle. Think of Angelina Jolie's natural bee-stung pout for inspiration.
The classic
“This is the original and most common way lip fillers are done – hence the name," says Dr Esho. "This is a very ‘less is more' approach to treating lips, where the original shape is maintained but filler is injected across the lip and the lip border, to restore volume lost over time as part of the ageing process.”
The Cupid
“The ‘Cupid’ lip filler style places emphasis on the Cupid's bow – the central bow shaped part of the top lip where the red of your lip meets the skin,” explains Dr Christine Hall, cosmetic doctor at the Taktouk Clinic. “Filler is placed in and along the Cupid's bow area to purposefully emphasise the appearance of this part of the lip. It is ideal for those who have a poorly-defined upper lip."
An alternative to fillers is the lip flip, where Botox is injected just above the lip to weaken the muscle and invert the lip so you can see more of the pink fleshiness.
The cherry
“Heart-shaped, or cherry lips, are another example of lip filler that is popular among both males and females, especially in South Korea,” says Dr Hall. “So named after the image of two small bunches of cherries laying horizontally across the lip, volume is placed strategically either side of the centre of the top and bottom lip to emphasise the natural cushions there. By focusing the volume in the centre, a plump and youthful heart shape is achieved, which makes the lips appear less wide.”
The Hollywood
As its moniker implies, the ‘Hollywood’ is named after the lip shape favoured by Tinseltown's actresses. “It focuses mainly on the top lip,” Dr Hall says. “The natural cushions to either side of the centre of the lip are restored to add volume. What is more unusual about this style is that the filler is also used to upturn the corners of the mouth and create fullness in an area that we would normally allow to taper down naturally. "
The Paris
“This technique focuses on injecting filler into the vermilion border of the lip, the Cupid's bow and vertically into the philtrum (the vertical groove between the base of the nose and the border of the upper lip) to give a resting, pouty but defined lip," Dr Esho explains. "When done well, it creates subtle enhancement and it only involves a small number of injections. However, the ‘Paris’ won’t suit everyone, especially those with a naturally longer philtrum – and be aware, injecting into this area gives a high risk of bruising. It is also a limited shape for those who want to show more of the pink of their lip.”
The Russian
The ‘Russian’ is inspired by Russian nesting dolls with their pinched, heart-shaped mouths. It's very much about creating lift, says Dr Hall. “The Russian lip is created by injecting thicker filler in vertical columns to create height and volume,” she notes, adding that there are several drawbacks to this look. “The technique involves significantly more injections and larger volumes of thicker filler, which significantly increases the risk of bruising and swelling in the short term. Longer term, it's important to be aware that the likelihood of the filler spreading over the borders of the lip is high, resulting in an unnatural look sometimes referred to as the ‘duck lip’ or ‘shelf’”.
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Acting Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
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