Few skincare ingredients give you the green light to dust off hyperpigmentation and dark spots without any nasty side effects. That's where kojic acid differs. Despite having the word ‘acid’ in the name, it is not an exfoliator. Naturally derived from mushrooms, the way kojic acid clarifies your complexion is a lot more nuanced – and gentle – than that.
We asked skin experts and cosmetic doctors to break down this ingredient – from how it works on the melanin in our skin (AKA the substance responsible for your skin colour) to who should try it and how best to incorporate it into your routine.
What is kojic acid?
Kojic acid is a naturally derived by-product of fungi that’s best known for its effects on areas of hyperpigmentation, both sun-induced and post-inflammatory. Specifically, snow mushroom is a rich source. It's also a byproduct of certain fermented foods, including Japanese sake, soy sauce and rice.
How it works
Instead of chemically exfoliating away the outermost layer of mottled skin as an at-home chemical peel would, “kojic acid works by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, a melanin-forming enzyme in the skin – thus fading existing areas of hyperpigmentation and preventing future dark spots,” explains aesthetic doctor, Dr Fiona McCarthy.
As a result, adds Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, skin tone will appear brighter and more even.
What does it do for your skin?
Kojic acid is renowned for evening out skin tone, first and foremost. By suppressing melanin overproduction in the skin, says aesthetic doctor Dr Ana Mansouri, “it effectively targets hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage and acne marks.”
It also acts as an antioxidant.“Kojic acid can neutralise free radicals, which, if left unchecked, can lead to dull skin, premature fine lines, pigmentation and redness,” says Dr Ejikeme. Not to mention, kojic acid has anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties. “It’s great for acne sufferers as it features both these qualities, unlike most other acids,” notes aesthetic doctor Dr Sophie Shotter.
The expert-approved guide to treating your pigmentation, plus the best dark spot correctors
Gallery6 PhotosDoes kojic acid whiten your skin?
Kojic acid does not whiten or ‘bleach’ your skin in the same way as hydroquinone, a controversial prescription-only, ingredient would. It's an important distinction to make as kojic acid evens out your skin tone instead of lightening it.
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