According to Dr Mahto, there are many different types of micro-needling devices that exist on the market: “There are manual rolling devices (such as a derma roller), as well as electrical pens, for example SkinPen. Both of these types of devices work on the idea that by inducing a controlled injury to the skin (caused by the needles), a trigger response in the form of wound-healing will occur and as a result, collagen production will be increased.”
She explains that this can be beneficial because collagen is the main protein in our skin. “It gives our skin both support and structure – as we get older we also start to lose collagen (usually from around our mid-twenties) which can result in some of the signs we typically associate with skin ageing such as skin laxity, fine lines and wrinkles.”
Do derma rollers help regrow hair?
According to Dr Bessam, micro-needling has been used in recent years as a treatment for thinning and hair loss. “This can be done in a number of ways - It can be either done using a derma roller, rolling pins of various depths all over the scalp, or sometimes it’s done by a mechanise pen like a device that stamps needles in and out of the scalp.” He goes on to say, “It is thought that micro needling works by stimulating a wound that when heals, stimulates collagen formation while also increasing blood flow. There is certainly scientific research that links wound healing with hair growth.”
Does a derma roller help acne?
Yes and no. Dr Mahto reveals that microneedling, when done properly in a clinical setting, can be very beneficial for improving skin texture for those with acne scarring when used on non-active acne. This means if you have had breakouts in the past but they’re no longer regular and your skin is typically clear. However if microneedling/derma rolling is used on active acne – AKA if you have cysts, whiteheads, bumps, inflammation etc - then it can actually risk acne scarring.
Are derma rollers safe to use?
“Microneedling is a safe and effective treatment for those with and without specific skin issues. It is generally well tolerated. Depending on the area which requires treatment and the extent and severity of the condition, it can take anything between five to 60 minutes to perform safely. Prior to the treatment, a numbing cream is applied to the skin to ensure the patient is comfortable.
The needling device is then passed over the skin multiple times,” says Dr Mahto. She says it’s not unexpected for skin to be red, feel puffy or tight after the procedure (particularly if you have sensitive skin), but this should settle within a day. “Often multiple sessions are required for best results and these are usually carried out 4 to 6 weeks apart.”
To get the most effective results from skin needling, Dr Mahto recommends speaking to a medical professional who is highly experienced in managing the skin and its issues, such as a consultant dermatologist with an interest in aesthetics. “It’s important to avoid treating areas of active acne and to know how to treat complications from the procedure, such as a flare up of chronic inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema or seborrhoeic dermatitis. Check your practitioner’s credentials and if you have skin of colour, be aware you may need pre-treatment to reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation following the procedure.”
What is the best technique to use a derma roller and how often should I use it?
Ayodele strongly advises to only undergo derma rolling or microneedling treatments within a clinic setting. “It's very difficult to keep derma rollers clean and in a controlled hygienic environment, and at home, you just can't guarantee the amount of pressure that's going to be used on the skin, so you're not necessarily going to get even results at all.”
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